Brunch at La Baha in San Miguel de Allende

The morning at La Baha begins with the rhythmic sound of hands on dough. A cook from Guanajuato spreads blue corn tortillas on a clay comal while the smoke rises slowly between the stone walls. Your table is set outdoors, under the shade of a bougainvillea tree dropping petals onto the raw linen tablecloth.

The first dish arrives unannounced: poached eggs on a bed of black beans with epazote, crowned with pasilla chile sauce and crumbled fresh cheese. The morning mezcal — soft, herbal, almost medicinal — is served in a jícara, as grandparents once did. There is no menu brunch here; there is a ritual of flavors that change with the season.